On a street behind the public beach two old friends sit in their allotment watching the sun set on the Gulf of Aqaba sharing stories over a bottle of red as a man sets down his prayer mat on the footpath in front of them. Down at the beach a young man in fluorescent pink swim shorts tentatively touches his lover’s hand watched over by two ladies wearing niqabs. A teenage boy sells slushies to local children, he turns on his charm for a family of tourists, but they have their hearts firmly set on returning to the all-inclusive bars of their five-star resort. In the background, a muezzin’s call competes with the squeals of children splashing amongst the waves.
Aqaba has always been a melting pot of cultures. It’s Jordan’s seaside playground and only port, the meeting point of Jordan, Israel and Egypt and has long been a firm favorite with wealthy Arabs looking for some R&R. Recently though, Aqaba has come on to the radar of European tourists. This should come as no surprise; there’s cheap guesthouses and world-renowned resorts, award winning beaches and diving galore. That’s all before you consider that Aqaba is the gateway to Wadi Rum & Petra.
Understandably, most of those tourists come to Aqaba for sun, sea and sand. At first glance, there isn’t a whole lot of culture, nor any particularly noteworthy sights to behold, but I always think a sightseeing bus tour should be the first thing you do when arriving in a new destination. They’re a great way to get your bearings and build a list of what to see whilst you’re there. In Aqaba’s case that list turned out to be rather short. We pass a souk, the Corniche and King Hussein bin Talal Mosque. A tad uninspired, I wandered aimlessly along the Corniche, until I found the entrance to the public beach.
It may come across that my first impressions of Aqaba had left me feeling slightly disappointed. That’s not untrue. But as I walked along the beach and parallel streets that disappointment disappeared. I found the ‘real’ Aqaba. It’s confused, very confused, and I love it. Few places in the world can claim to be all things to all people, but Aqaba does, and somehow, it works.
The public beach takes the word “public” and fulfils it to its true meaning- here there is everyone. People from all walks of life- the vendors fighting to get by selling tat to wealthy tourists, the jetsetters fulfilling their obligation to leave their resort for an afternoon in order to say they’ve seen Aqaba, Jordanians escaping the hustle and bustle of Amman for a weekend break with their families, the local children playing on the sand with their friends. Every group could not be more different from the last, yet here on the shores of the Red Sea they’re all equal.
Where Is Aqaba?
Sitting at the northern tip of the Gulf of Aqaba, itself at the head of the Red Sea, Jordan’s southernmost city straddles the border between Asia and Africa. The capital, Amman, is some 200 miles to the north. Jordan’s border with Saudi Arabia is 16 miles south of Aqaba; the Israeli border is six miles west of the city. Push on for eight more miles through Israel, and you’ll reach the border crossing to Taba in Egypt.
How to Get to Aqaba
If you fancy visiting Aqaba as a standalone destination, the best option is to fly. King Hussein International Airport (AQJ) is six miles north of the city center. Car rental outlets and taxis are readily available upon arrival. The recent regional tensions in the Middle East have caused a downturn in international visitors. To my mind, this only adds to Aqaba’s appeal. When it comes to travel, bucking the trends and getting off the beaten path is what it’s all about. What this does mean, though, is that Aqaba’s route network has been scaled back somewhat. Turkish Airlines offer global connections via Istanbul, whilst Royal Jordanian fly from Cairo and several times daily from Amman.
My personal recommendation is to add a visit to Aqaba on to a longer Jordanian road trip. Fly into Amman, spend a couple of days exploring the capital before heading south. Skirt the Dead Sea, marvel at the ancient wonder that is Petra and follow in T.E. Lawrence’s footsteps through Wadi Rum before cooling off with a weekend on Aqaba public beach.
