The mountains surrounding Santiago, Chile, are a hiker’s paradise. I’ve been hiking multiple times a month for over a year now, and it baffles me that there are still so many trails, peaks, and valleys to explore.
One spring Sunday, I set out with two guides on a lesser-known mountain called Cerro Abanico. Little did I know at the start that it would become one of my favorite hiking experiences in the region.
The Approach & Views of the Baháʼí Temple
Cerro Abanico is nestled among other popular peaks (several of which I’d already been to) within Parque San Carlos de Apoquindo. This area lies within the “precordillera,” the Andean foothills. I love this particular park for its winding, extensive trail network, scenic variety, and access to waterfalls and streams.
The other nearby mountains (“cerros”) and hikes (“senderos”) that I’d been to before Cerro Abanico are:
- Cerro Provincia
- Cerro Ramón
- Sendero San Carlos
- Morro Las Papas
- Cerro Alto de Las Vizcachas
- Alto del Naranjo
Many of these trails are excellent for summer hikes, because as I’ve discovered, the lower trails can run through “quebradas” (ravines or gullies), offering shade from the scorching sun. Of course, when we hiked Cerro Abanico, the springtime weather was more bearable than the summer heat.
The approach to Cerro Abanico took us through thick grass with wildflowers, with the famous Baháʼí Temple to our left. As we walked, the pollen from the yellow flowers began coating my boots and pants. The trail was completely overgrown for long stretches, making it difficult to walk, especially in the steeper sections. But I trusted my guides, one of whom had hiked this mountain countless times and knew the way like the back of his hand.
Wildflowers & Birdsongs
One of my favorite parts of this hike was stopping here and there to admire unique flowers and spot birds whose melodies rang through the quiet midmorning air. My guides could name every flower, plant, and tree, which was beyond impressive.
As the trail stretched onward and upward, we sighted little yellow flowers, droopy fuchsia flowers, and bright coral flowers. One bird’s song we kept hearing was from a trile, also known as an Andean blackbird. My guides were quick to spot whichever bird was singing, even if it was well hidden in a thick bush or tree.
Natural Shampoo & The Stream
Under the shade of an enormous tree, one guide stopped us and explained that this tree was the quillay tree. Its leaves, as he told us, have a special trick. He plucked a few from nearby branches, and I watched as he crushed them up into tiny pieces.
The other guide poured a bit of water into his palms with the crushed leaf pieces, and out of nowhere, suds appeared. It was a natural shampoo. I felt like I’d been let in on a forgotten Chilean secret, a bit of natural magic that these foothills offer. From that point on, I recognized the quillay trees and appreciated them for what lies beyond the eye.
After a couple of hours, we came across a little pool and a stream, where we stopped for a water and snack break. That nook was a popular spot for picnics, as evidenced by a couple of pieces of trash and some graffiti on the nearby rocks. In fact, on the way down, there was a group having Chilean-style hot dogs (completos) at that very spot.
Reaching the Peak
Steep switchbacks commenced after we hiked above the tree line, and the trail became slippery due to the thin layer of dust atop dry, packed dirt. I knew the way down on this type of terrain would be much more difficult than going up, so I tried to appreciate this part, though I was sweating buckets.
Rocky sections tested our endurance as the trail went on and on. In total, the ascent is about eight kilometers (five miles) and about +1,587 meters (5,205 feet) in elevation gain, and if you’re a hiker like me, you know that’s no joke. The final stretch involved walking on a broad ridge, and when we finally reached the top, it’s safe to say I was ready for a break.
As always, the views from the top were stunning. Other mountain peaks dominated the landscape to the north, and we saw a smoggy Santiago to the east. In the distance, we saw hikers that looked much like ants walking on tiny trails. And, to our surprise, we were gifted a unique and rare surprise from this mountain: a vizcacha sighting.
Spend enough time in Santiago, and you’ll likely hear something about vizcachas or see that name around town, on street signs, local business names, and park or trail names. Vizcachas are adorable mammals that live among rocks and are like a cross between a rabbit and a chinchilla. And, sure enough, we saw it nestled in the rocks, well-camouflaged, nibbling on something. We had the pleasure of watching it for quite a few minutes before it scurried down the mountain face.
The Descent
After finishing my summit sandwich and a few snacks, gulping some electrolytes, and resting my legs, I felt ready for the descent. It was already late afternoon, and we didn’t want to be stuck on the trail after dark. We picked up the pace for the way down, and luckily, gravity was on our side.
It was a relief to get down the dusty, slippery upper portions of the trail. Even with strong grips, my trekking boots slipped a couple of times on the declining path. That’s what my poles are for: to catch those near-falls! Descending farther down and into the green foliage once again, the conversations turned to food and drinks, and I was more than ready to wrap up the hike and head to dinner. But, of course, I still enjoyed the gorgeous scenery and every step spent in this welcoming natural area.
Cerro Abanico: Not Popular, But It Should Be
With the amount of scenery, vegetation, and wildlife we saw, I can’t believe that it took me so long to even hear about this beautiful mountain. I accept that the beginning of the trail is tough to navigate, at least in the spring with so much overgrowth. But the trail offers a fair challenge and rewarding views that any avid hiker would appreciate, myself included! I can only hope that if I return, I’ll be able to see even more wildlife…and slip a little less on the way down.
