Angola was one of those places that had slipped through the cracks of everything I knew about the world. Before arriving, I couldn’t have told you much about its history, cultures, or even what its capital looked like. But as part of a cruise sailing from Cape Town to Barcelona, I found myself stepping into Luanda with nothing but curiosity.
The Iron Palace
Our first stop was the Palacio de Ferro, which translates to “iron palace.” The small yellow building stood out immediately against the modern architecture of downtown, designed in a French architectural style with intricate railings and delicate patterns. Surrounding it was a courtyard filled with palm trees and colorful flowers, welcoming us as we walked in.
The history of the building is shrouded in mystery. Some believe that Gustave Eiffel himself designed it in France, originally intended for another Portuguese colony. According to lore, the structure was being transported on a ship when a storm blew it off course or sank it, bringing it to Luanda. Over time, it was assembled in Angola and never left. Whether the story is true or not, no one knows for certain how it got here. Walking along the upper floors and iron-decorated staircases, it was fascinating to imagine the journey this structure had taken.
A Stop at the Anthropology Museum
At the Anthropology Museum, I stepped into Angola’s history long before the Portuguese arrived in 1575. Exploring the exhibits with a local guide, we learned about the rituals and traditions of the tribes throughout the country, including their specific rites and practices for big life events and ceremonies. “I don’t believe in any of this,” our guide explained as he pointed to a statue believed to appear in the home after a loved one dies. ” But my father and forefathers believed this. This is our history beyond the European story.”
The São Miguel Fortress and Civil War Remnants
At the São Miguel fortress, perched high above the city overlooking the business district and poor neighborhoods, there was a strange, familiar feeling. Looking around at the white painted walls, the display of colonial canons, and the Portuguese tiles, I realized how many versions of this fort I’ve already stood in.
From the Caribbean to Southeast Asia, I’ve witnessed the impact and legacy of Portuguese colonialism as it spread throughout the world.
Today, the fortress holds important artifacts and photographs from Angola’s history, particularly its more recent war of independence from Portugal and the civil war that followed. Before visiting the country, I knew little about the Angolan Civil War, which served as a proxy conflict during the Cold War between the Soviet Union, Cuba, and Western powers. Cuba, in particular, sent thousands of troops to support the communist faction in the war, ultimately helping to secure victory against the other groups backed by the United States. While Angola has since moved away from Marxist ideology, the country still holds deep respect for its founding, particularly for its first president.
Inside the fortress, traditional Portuguese blue tiles covered the walls, depicting colonial figures, scenes, and maps of the Portuguese African territories. This port in particular once served as a major hub in the transatlantic slave trade, sending enslaved people from the continent to Brazil.
The rooms on the Angolan Civil War, which took place between 1975 and 2002, were by far the most striking. They contained photographs and artifacts from the conflict, including remnants of a South African plane that had been shot down and several unexploded weapons. A sign in front of them read “napalm weapons used by the Portuguese and racist South Africans.” At the time, the apartheid regime in South Africa was also involved in the conflict, seeking to ensure its own interests in the region.
Displayed were original signed agreements that allowed the Cubans to train the communist Angolan faction at the height of tensions between Cuba and Western powers. While history books tend to focus on the Cold War in Europe and Southeast Asia, it was fascinating to hear about what occurred in southern Africa.
President Neto’s Mausoleum
Our final stop was the mausoleum of Angola’s first president, Agostinho Neto. Built by the Soviets after he died in Moscow in 1979, the brutalist structure rises sharply into the sky, often referred to as a rocket ship due to its distinct shape. Unlike the city’s colonial-style architecture, the mausoleum creates a contrast on the horizon.
Walking inside, images and statues depict his life and the conflict, showcasing his achievements and grandeur. The halls were crisp and clean, constructed of marble and polished stone, with not a single echo moving through the chambers. The silence lent the place a sense of reverence, as workers ushered us along, ensuring we didn’t linger longer than needed.
Heading back towards the ship and onward to my next destination, I couldn’t help but reflect on everything we had seen in such a short time. From the colonial building and European influence, to the proxy war that ravaged the country and killed hundreds of thousands of people, Angola’s story is layered, complex, and often heartbreaking.
Walking through Luanda, it is evident that this city is deeply shaped by its turbulent past and is seeking to move towards a better future.
