In that part of Italy where every hilltop and every valley seems to hold a hidden wonder, there is a village as extraordinary as it is fragile. We are about 120 kilometers north of Rome, in an area known as Tuscia—lush, sparsely populated, and still largely untouched by mass tourism, whether domestic or international.
Road signs announce the approach to Civita di Bagnoregio, often accompanied by the ominous label “The Dying City.” Once you arrive, the reason becomes immediately clear. Perched on a narrowing spur of tuff rock that continues to crumble over time, Civita stands suspended between beauty and instability. It is extremely difficult to access, and at the same time, one extraordinarily compelling—caught between resistance and disappearance.
Why Civita Is Called “The Dying City”
The nickname “The Dying City” was coined by 20th-century writer Bonaventura Tecchi, a native of Civita, who captured its precarious condition and slow decline in his work. Civita’s fate is rooted in both geology and history. The village sits atop a plateau composed of tuff and clay—materials that are inherently unstable and highly vulnerable to erosion. Landslides, earthquakes, and collapses have shaped life here since the first human settlements, dating back roughly 4,000 years. During the Middle Ages, the plateau was nearly three times larger than it is today and supported a population of over 3,000 inhabitants. Over centuries, the river flowing through the surrounding Valley of the Calanchi gradually eroded the base of the city, consuming it from the bottom up in a slow but relentless process. The decisive blow came with the earthquake of 1695, which prompted most residents to abandon the village. Civita never recovered demographically.
Today, the inhabitable surface of Civita measures just over 300 by 500 feet — a tiny fragment of its original size. Around 1920, about 600 people still lived here; today, there are only seven permanent residents. The village’s long-term survival remains uncertain. And yet, it is precisely this extreme condition that has transformed Civita into a universal symbol of fragility, memory, and endurance.
The Bridge as a Threshold
The experience of Civita begins even before you enter it. From the nearby town of Bagnoregio, reaching Civita requires crossing a long pedestrian bridge suspended over the valley—a walk that feels very much like a rite of passage. With each step forward, the modern world recedes. Ahead, the village appears compact, silent, and detached from time, as if it had been carefully placed in its precarious position.
A Village to Be Walked With Care
Once inside, Civita di Bagnoregio reveals itself as a remarkably intact microcosm, despite everything it has endured. A handful of paved streets follow the irregular shape of the plateau, leading into stone alleys, uneven stairways, small open spaces, inner courtyards, and sudden viewpoints overlooking the valley. The houses are built almost entirely of local tuff, a volcanic stone whose porous texture and warm tones range from honey yellow to deep brown, depending on exposure and age. Carefully restored, these buildings tell the story of centuries spent adapting to a difficult landscape. The architecture reflects successive layers of history: Etruscan origins, medieval structures, Renaissance elements, and later modifications coexist in a varied yet coherent balance.
At the heart of the village lies Piazza San Donato, dominated by the church of the same name, with its restrained façade and central rose window. Noble residences and more modest homes stand side by side, without sharp divisions. Civita does not present a checklist of attractions; instead, it offers a compact and legible whole, where every architectural detail speaks of humanity’s continuous adaptation to an unstable environment. For this reason, wandering without a set destination is one of the most rewarding ways to experience the village—simply absorbing the quiet, the stillness, and the understated beauty of the place. However, one of Civita’s most striking qualities is its constant dialogue with the surrounding landscape of the Calanchi: rolling, green hills interrupted by dramatic, almost lunar erosions that stretch as far as the eye can see.
Living Civita Today: Between Memory and New Arrivals
Despite its tiny number of residents, Civita is—fortunately—far from lifeless today. Over the years, the village has attracted artists, writers, intellectuals, and travelers who have chosen to stay or return. More recently, this group reportedly includes Harry Styles, who,o according to multiple sources, has purchased a home here, drawn by the village’s privacy, restrained beauty, and isolation. His presence has brought renewed international attention, but without altering the discreet and introspective character of the village. Moreover, Civita’s very fragility—along with its extraordinary state of preservation—has made it a significant tourist destination, drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors each year.
Practical Information: Tickets, Getting There, and Where to Eat
To protect the village and manage visitor numbers, access to Civita di Bagnoregio is regulated by an entrance fee. The ticket helps fund maintenance and safety measures for this extremely fragile site. The cost is approximately €5 per person (prices may vary), with discounts available for residents, students, and groups. Tickets are purchased at the entrance to the pedestrian bridge, just before crossing.
Here’s how to Civita di Bagnoregio, located in Lazio, in the province of Viterbo:
- By car: The easiest option. From Rome, the drive takes about 1 hour and 45 minutes. Parking is available in Bagnoregio, from where you walk to the start of the bridge.
- By train + bus: Trains run to Orvieto or Viterbo, followed by a bus to Bagnoregio. This option is possible but less convenient, especially if time is limited.
- On foot across the bridge: The only way to enter Civita. The walk is scenic but uphill; comfortable shoes are recommended, particularly in summer or during the hottest hours.
Despite its small size, Civita offers several quality trattorias and restaurants, often with terraces overlooking the Calanchi valley. The cuisine reflects the traditions of Alto Lazio: simple, seasonal dishes tied closely to the land, such as handmade fettuccine with wild boar sauce, gnocchi with ragù, and grilled lamb. Reservations are recommended during high season, especially on weekends. Alternatively, dining options are more plentiful and informal in Bagnoregio, before or after your visit.
For an unhurried visit to Civita di Bagnoregio, allow at least 2–3 hours—more if you plan to eat or simply take your time.
As an Italian, it is clear to me how important it is to preserve small towns like Civita di Bagnoregio. Saving them means safeguarding tradition and history—not only in architectural or historical terms, but also culturally. Acknowledging Civita’s fragility does not mean accepting its disappearance; it means recognizing its condition and, at the same time, its value. Civita teaches that beauty is not eternal, that fragility can be a form of strength, and that preservation does not mean freezing a place in time, but actively taking care of something precious.
