East of the sprawling city of Santiago, Chile, encircled by mountains spotted with snow, sits a reservoir at the end of a long canyon, where we’re about to have a much-needed girls’ camping trip under the stars. Cajon del Maipo is a beloved natural area within a couple of hours’ drive of Santiago, full of outdoor activities. It’s the perfect weekend away from the hectic big city, and that’s exactly what we’re here for.
Preparation & Planning
Planning to go on a camping trip is almost second nature to me. Packing up my backpack, first with essentials and then with whatever extra items I might want, is ritualistic. And I splurge with weight while packing, because my friend and I are only backpacking a short distance to our campsite by Embalse el Yeso, the turquoise reservoir in Cajon del Maipo.
Since we’re going in early April, the weather is moderate, though a bit chilly at night. I pack a few layers, including my down jacket, a beanie, gloves, and my warmest wool socks for nighttime. My sleeping bag is only rated to about 6 degrees Celsius (42 degrees Fahrenheit), but it’ll do for this fall weekend.
We’re only planning to go for one night, so I just pack enough food for a late lunch, a hot dinner, and breakfast the next morning. I tuck away my tiny gas stove and a pot to cook our dehydrated meals, along with my lightweight spork and a pocket knife, just in case. The lighter, portable battery, and headlamp all go in as well, and I shove my foam sleeping pad in the loops at the bottom of my pack. And, just like that, I feel ready to start our little adventure.
Arriving on a Busy Weekend
Being Easter weekend, the dirt road and dirt parking lots ahead of the reservoir are absolutely packed. A friendly parking lot attendant—who we later found out was the son of the homeowner who lives there—guides us in a spot next to their home. Kala, my friend’s dog (yes, the Embalse el Yeso area is pet-friendly), waits impatiently for us to make any final adjustments to our backpacks before heading out.
The atmosphere on this sunny day out in Cajon del Maipo is vibrant, buzzing with excitement from families and couples, and plenty of other dogs tagging along. Stretching out in front of us, the road in lined with other parked cars, and I see people unpacking lawn chairs and coolers to have picnics nearby. That energy stays with us for at least the first hour, but the journey grows quieter after that.
In typical Andean fashion, the sun is beating down on us mercilessly, and I keep reapplying my 50 SPF sunscreen. As the crowds thin out (not everyone is willing to walk this far!), the atmosphere calms, and we gaze out at the bright teal water that’s sparkling with the sun’s rays. Walking on this dirt path is simple and relaxing, just what we both needed this weekend.
Searching for a Camping Spot
There’s no official campsite in the broad, flat land east of the Embalse el Yeso, but camping is permitted. Of course, we’re going to follow the leave-no-trace camping style in whatever spot we choose. As we hike along, we start to see some viable spots. But we press on to the most spacious area, which lies at the very end of this path.
Nearing the far edge of the reservoir, the turquoise water begins to blend with a huge patch of pale yellow. It’s a curious sight, one that I had to ask about the last time I came here. The yellow water comes from mineral-rich runoff from volcanic activity in the surrounding mountains. It’s fascinating to have a first-hand look at the geological wonders happening here, creating a work of art in this body of water.
Not a single other person is down at the end of the Embalse el Yeso. It’s such a freeing feeling, like we have a VIP section in the canyon all to ourselves. From the shoreline of the reservoir, there’s a vast patch of packed dirt that stretches all the way to a spikey field of grass patches. We avoid the field and opt for a nice flat spot smack in the middle of the reservoir, field, and either side of the canyon.
A Night Under the Stars
After setting up our two little tents, one for myself and one for my friend and her dog, we already feel the temperature dropping as the sun dips behind the mountains in the distance. I hurry to boil water for our dehydrated dinners before it gets too cold to be outside comfortably. I’m already snug in my down jacket and beanie, prepared for the chill.
Today’s hike was only a couple of hours, but combined with the pack weight and the sun’s intensity, it was taxing. So, chowing down on a bland pasta dinner is sufficient for me. Completely without cell service, we enjoy the peace and quiet, watching the sky change colors as the sunlight fades.
My friend and her dog retreat into their tent as the temperature drops further. I cozy up in my sleeping bag, just inside my tent, with the door open. Stargazing this far from the city is spectacular; you can see so many more than usual, and they appear to shine even more brightly. There’s utter silence, and the sun’s gone down completely. I spend a little while longer enjoying the view of the starry night sky before zipping up my tent and getting warm enough to fall asleep.
Heading Out of the Canyon
In the morning, we have the task of packing everything up—after breakfast, of course. We snap some more photos, do a little photoshoot with my friend’s dog, and with no rush whatsoever, head up and out of the shore area. The hike will be only another couple of hours, and luckily, it’s a simple stretch with more gorgeous views to soak in.
As we walk up the dirt path, we eventually start to see more people arriving to get a good picnic spot. The vibe changes from calm to energetic once more, helping us ease out of the alone-in-nature mood and back into civilization. With the parking lot packed once again, we load up the truck with our packs.
Always More to Explore in Cajon del Maipo
We drive away from Embalse el Yeso and out through the canyon, feeling a little more refreshed and a little more ready to face the coming week. As far as camping near Santiago goes, this experience is one of my favorites. I’ll always be ready to pack a bag or backpack and go out for a new adventure in the iconic Cajon del Maipo.
