Our guide slammed on the gas as the open-air jeep bounced backward at full speed, the giant Asian elephant staring directly back at us on the dirt path.
Stuck in the middle of the Chitwan National Park, there was forest on all sides, and nowhere to go. The greater the distance between us, the more the elephant seemed inclined to move along, no need to charge.
The guide waved the all-clear signal, and the park’s silence returned to my ears. My senses were overloaded by the shot of adrenaline as the safari went from a peaceful excursion to a moment from the Indiana Jones Disneyland ride. He turned and said, “We got lucky that wasn’t one of the mean elephants. They like to charge cars and stomp on homes in the villages. If it were, we would have already known.”
An Unexpected Journey to Chitwan
Sitting on the plane from Istanbul to Kathmandu, my mom turned to me and said, “By the way, we are also going to Chitwan for a safari, hopefully we can spot a tiger!” For all the research I had done on Nepal, I had not considered a safari. I was confused. Where? How? When?
Fast forward 2 weeks, and I found myself on a much smaller plane, the kind of plane that still had propellers and fits 10 people. Confession time: I have a horrible fear of flying in small planes, especially after researching the crash risk in Nepal. Looking out over the propeller, trying my best not have a panic attack, I saw the green that extended in every direction dotted with villages.
We were descending from the Himalayas towards the Indian border, at a point where the land is almost at sea level. After being picked up in a van, I could see why this was the place to spot wildlife. Once a popular spot for Nepalese royalty to hunt wildlife, the park was established in the 1970s to protect rhino and tiger populations after the area had shrunk by over 70% and animal numbers were dwindling. Today, it is one of the most successful conservation stories and evidence of how the community can benefit from such efforts, with some ticket sales used to support development projects.
The Lodge at the Edge of the Wild
After passing through the villages and seeing waving kids, rice patties, and elephants in the distance, we pulled up to the hotel. I could see why my parents were excited to come here. It felt like walking into a safari lodge in Tanzania or Kenya, one I had only seen in a brochure.
Beyond the buildings was a viewpoint overlooking a river, where elephants passed by with their caretakers and played in the water. The sun was bathing the whole place in a warm glow, and I couldn’t believe that the next morning, we would be in the forest that lay out in the distance.
Leaving Safety Behind, Stepping Into the Forest
Arriving at the park, we first had to cross over the river that separated the urban from the wild. Stepping onto the small dugout boat that barely fit the width of my hips, the guide cheerfully mentioned, “There are crocodiles in the water, be careful.
Sometimes they jump out and grab people.” Well, great. That should have been my first warning; this day was going to test my nerves and remind me of my sense of adventure.
The Search for Wildlife
After the elephant encounter, we continued our search for other animals, spotting a rhino in the water, crocodiles bathing in the sun, and peacocks strolling along the road. There was a rising anticipation in the air as we intently analyzed every movement, hoping to spot an orange shadow, but we sadly missed our chance. With the park covering 360 sq miles, the odds of encountering an animal are quite low, and I felt grateful for the moments I did.
Stopping for a meal, we found a clearing with a tall, 2-story, rickety wooden tower. As I sat at the top, drinking tea from a metal cup, I found myself thinking about how the best travel experiences are often the ones that surprise you, not the ones meticulously planned or analyzed.
They are the moments where you push yourself out of your comfort zone – like facing down charging elephants or flying in scary planes – and moments where you find life guiding you along to create experiences that last a lifetime.
Visiting Chitwan was a reminder that travel is meant to surprise you. It is meant to remind you of the planet’s fascinating diversity and how there is always more than meets the eye.
If you ever have the chance to visit Nepal, take the time to explore Chitwan. It won’t disappoint.
