Death and exile: A war plagues Indigenous Jiw and Nukak in the Colombian Amazon – Image for illustrative purposes only (Image credits: Unsplash)
San José del Guaviare – Fighting has returned to rural zones around this gateway city in Colombia’s Guaviare department, turning parts of the Amazon into an active conflict zone once more. Clashes that began in late May have already claimed dozens of lives and forced Indigenous residents to remain indoors. The violence centers on territory long contested by armed groups tied to illicit economies along the Guaviare River.
Why the Fighting Matters Now
The renewed confrontations involve two factions of FARC dissidents that never fully demobilized after the 2016 peace accord. One group operates under the command of Alexander Díaz Mendoza, known as “Calarcá,” while the other follows Néstor Gregorio Vera Fernández, alias “Iván Mordisco.” Their struggle for control of a strategic corridor has displaced communities and restricted movement across ancestral lands.
Travelers planning trips to Colombia’s southern Amazon often pass through or near San José del Guaviare when heading toward more remote reserves or river routes. The current instability directly affects access to those areas and increases the risk of being caught in crossfire or subject to movement restrictions imposed by security forces.
Life Inside the Barranco Colorado Reserve
Indigenous Jiw and Nukak families in the Barranco Colorado Reserve have borne the brunt of the latest escalation. Residents of nearby Cumare and Charras report hearing sustained gunfire since May 26 and have largely stopped leaving their homes. A local woman described a bomb landing on a sports field in the Siberia district, underscoring how close the fighting has come to civilian areas.
Both communities have lived with periodic threats for years, yet the speed and intensity of this round of clashes caught many off guard. Families now rely on limited supplies while avoiding roads and river crossings that could expose them to either armed group.
Official Response and Regional Context
Colombian Defense Minister Pedro Sánchez confirmed that the two criminal structures clashed in the Barranco Colorado sector under San José del Guaviare’s jurisdiction. Government forces have increased patrols, though the remote terrain makes sustained operations difficult.
The Guaviare River corridor remains valuable for groups involved in illegal activities, which explains why control of the area continues to spark violence long after the main FARC demobilization. Similar patterns have appeared in other Amazonian departments where state presence is thin.
Practical Considerations for Visitors
Adventure travelers and ecotour operators should monitor official travel advisories from both the U.S. Department of State and Colombian authorities before booking itineraries that include Guaviare. Many remote lodges and river excursions in the region rely on stable local conditions that no longer exist in the affected zones.
Alternative destinations within Colombia’s Amazon, such as areas around Leticia or parts of Caquetá with stronger security infrastructure, may offer safer options for the time being. Operators on the ground are best positioned to advise on current access, though last-minute changes remain likely.
Looking Ahead
The situation remains fluid, with both armed factions showing little sign of withdrawing from the contested river corridor. Indigenous leaders continue to call for protection of their territories while residents weigh the difficult choice between staying put and seeking safer ground elsewhere.
For travelers drawn to Colombia’s Amazon, the current episode serves as a reminder that even long-settled regions can shift quickly when armed groups compete for influence. Checking real-time security updates and maintaining flexibility in plans remain the most prudent steps.
