“Step on the gas. Right. Now!” I yelled as the angry African elephant stared right back at our car, standing almost double its size. The car backed up in a fury, bouncing along the potholes in the dusty road in the middle of the bush in the Addo Elephant Park, trying to get out of the direct path of the largest male of the herd that was right in front of us.
What was supposed to be a quick pass near a watering hole in the middle of the thousands of square miles of green turned into us blocking the direct path of a herd of elephants that came out of almost nowhere. Sitting in the back seat, I can remember looking to my left at the trees that were only a few feet from the window, as they began to shake. Slowly, an elephant truck emerged from the branches, only to realize its path was blocked by our humble, small white Kia rental. As the mothers, a baby, and teenagers scooted around us, we attempted to back up, only for multiple safari vehicles to pin us in as eager tourists took pictures of the elephants so close. As the large male came toward the path to the waterhole, we were the only thing standing in his way.
How did my family and I get here? Instead of going to high school, I was brought up traveling around the world, with an education focused on cultural immersion and global adventures rather than sitting in a classroom. This meant that while we ventured around the globe to learn as much as possible, our money was tight. And just because we were traveling in South Africa didn’t mean we had the budget for an all-out safari lodge adventure. After a small period of disappointment because I thought I wouldn’t be able to spot the wildlife I loved, the option of a self-drive safari presented itself. So when we piled into our rental car that barely fit 5 people (one of which was a small child), I hoped the day would be as magical as sitting in an open-air jeep with the wind blowing on my face – but I didn’t have high hopes.
An African Safari In a Rental Car
The only requirement for self-driving safaris in the Addo Elephant Park is to obey the indicated rules and exit before the park closes. Other than that, you are free to go and explore as you like, taking responsibility for your own life, as you are literally surrounded by wild animals. Founded in 1931, the park was created as a way to protect the last remaining elephants in the area, which had been hunted almost to complete extermination after farmers demanded they be killed. After a horrible rampage from the government, which killed 114 in one year, there were only 11 elephants left. Today, their numbers have grown back to over 600 and are thriving in the protected space.
The Journey Through the Park
Beginning the journey, it felt like a weird contradiction to be driving down a bare dirt path in the bush in a normal rental car, bumping along and feeling every single patch in the road. After only a few minutes of gazing out in search of wildlife, my sister exclaimed, “Look to the left!” Just then, a dark figure almost the size of the car emerged from behind a tree. A huge water buffalo, one of South Africa’s Big 5, was feet from the window. After only a few seconds of what appeared to be a lifetime, it turned back to its meal, unfazed by the strange machine that sat in front of it. With its huge horns and bulky body, I now understand why the buffalo is one of the Big 5.
The park was huge, stretching for miles in every direction across hills and plains of bush and savannah. There were patches of dense green that dotted the landscape, opening up into clearings where I could see herds of elephants, zebras, and antelope grazing.
Coming onto a clearing after an hour of driving, a sign that read “beware of lions” stood at the edge of the cliff. I couldn’t pass on the opportunity. Jumping out of the car as fast as I could, I posed and ran back, knowing that anywhere around me were wild animals. In hindsight, that probably wasn’t the best idea – but I’m alive to tell the tale.
The Kings of the Road
The stars of the day weren’t the majestic lions or even the large herds of elephants, but the dung beetles who made themselves the kings of the road. Pushing along the rolls of elephant dung, these adorable creatures used their two back legs to move backwards, one step at a time, with their front ones. Without the recurring signs that warn visitors that they have the right of way on the roads, we never would have noticed them. Yet they dotted the paths, moving along their balls of dung with grit and determination. Unlike other dung beetles in South Africa, these are distinct because they lack wings, making them quite unique within the beetle family.
A Visit With the Lions
While we continued to check wildlife off our bucket list, there was still the anticipation of a lion sighting. As the day passed, I grew concerned that we might not spot them. And after our extraordinary and anxiety-inducing encounter with the elephants at the watering hole, nerves were already on edge. Turning a corner, we spotted a group of safari jeeps together. Could this be it? Coming into the clearing, we patiently waited until it was our turn to see what the excitement was about.
Lying in a clearing very close to the road were the lions, licking what appeared to be bones and bathing in the midday sun. Cars and jeeps were lined up right next to the bones, passing them as if it were a Disneyland ride. Except this wasn’t an amusement park, not the lions’ fake animatronics. This was real life, and that meant staying in the car and keeping your windows up at all times. We had later heard that in the park, years ago, a writer for the series Game of Thrones had been tragically attacked after rolling down her window.
Would I Go on a Self-Drive Safari Again?
Absolutely! While I didn’t know what to expect at the beginning, the self-drive feels exactly the same for adventure and wildlife spotting. The downside is that we were on our own, so we didn’t have the knowledge or connections that local guides have to get news about where animals were being spotted. However, the freedom to spend as much time as we wanted in one spot and go where we wished meant we had full control of the day.
Conclusion
Self-drive safaris are an ideal option for travelers who want to see wildlife but are on a budget. They are available in many national parks throughout South Africa, even big ones such as Kruger. While I do hope to experience the magic of staying in a safari lodge one day, this was the ideal option to have the memory of seeing African wildlife up close without breaking the bank.
