Less than 20 miles from San Diego’s sun drenched waterfront, I found myself standing at one of the most crossed borders in the world. Getting there had been easy, getting across it proved somewhat more challenging. Leaving the United States took just a few seconds; entering Mexico couldn’t have been more different.
The San Ysidro crossing between San Diego and Tijuana handles around 145,000 crossings per day. But still, the Mexican authorities seemed to have no idea what to do with someone who had anything other than a Mexican or U.S. passport.
After much toing and froing, the correct immigration card was finally dug out, and without so much as a cursory look at the picture page of my passport, I was stamped in to Mexico. Only, seconds later, to be pulled aside for a full baggage search. The customs officer seemed to think with enough pressure, I’d eventually admit to being a smuggler.
Is Tijuana Really That Dangerous?
The Crime Figures
For many years, Tijuana has been in the top 10 most dangerous cities by homicide rate. Depending on which statistics you believe, Tijuana is slightly safer than it was a few years back. Some sources now place it as the 7th most dangerous with 87 murders per 100,000 inhabitants. Others rank it top, with 138 homicides per 100,000.
Either way, there can be no doubt that Tijuana is a particularly violent city.
What This Means for Travellers
I’d had my heart set on visiting Tijuana for a long time. For years, I’d stared at a map of the U.S. wondering about this mysterious place which lay just across the border. I also knew of it’s reputation, but my mind was made up. I was going to Tijuana, dangerous or not.
The reality was, I felt safer in Tijuana than in most cities north of the border. Tijuana’s main tourist areas really couldn’t be much safer. They’re patrolled 24-hours a day by police and the National Guard, and whilst at first, it was a little disconcerting to watch a pick-up truck full of machine gun-wielding soldiers driving past, it really added to the feeling of safety.
The fact is, that whilst the crime figures are indisputably true, the crimes themselves are majority cartel related. There’s little reason for any traveller to be caught up assuming you they don’t become involved with anything illegal. Crime also tends to occur out with the major tourist areas of Avenida Revolucion, Playas de Tijuana and Zona Rio.
Take care not to stray off the beaten track into any dodgy parts of town. Particularly notorious is Zona Norte. This is Tijuana’s infamous red light district which, for obvious reason, attracts a certain kind of tourist, generally after one two many craft beers. The tourist police don’t cover this area, and it’s generally believed that the local officers who do, tend to be corrupt.
It is important to note that along with other governments, the British FCDO advice citizens against all but essential travel to Tijuana. As always, you should check your government’s travel advice before travelling.
The Best Way to Visit Tijuana
Unless you live in California or Baja California, Tijuana is unlikely to crop up as a destination on it’s own right. If you are travelling purely to visit Tijuana from the U.S., it’s often better to fly to San Diego and cross the border on foot. There’s only one flight from the U.S. to Tijuana; an American Eagle service from Phoenix.
The same applies if you’re visiting from outside North America. The only long-haul flight from Tijuana is to Beijing, so coming from Europe, you’d need to fly via Phoenix or Mexico City. This really limits your options, whereas San Diego is far better connected.
If you decide to cross the border from San Diego, San Ysidro is the biggest and easiest crossing. If, like me, you’re travelling on foot, take the light rail from San Diego Old Town or Downtown straight to San Ysidro from where you can walk to the border. When you reach the other side, there are always taxis waiting to take you to Avenida Revolucion or the Playas. You can also walk to Avenida Revolucion in around 30 minutes.
Things to Do in Tijuana
Aside from experiencing the huge cultural shift as soon as you cross the border, Tijuana has plenty to keep you occupied for a couple of days. By far, though, it’s main draw is the beaches.
Playas de Tijuana
Playas de Tijuana are around nine kilometres from Avenida Revolucion, so you’ll want to take a taxi. Local taxis are cash only, but Uber is available. I found both to be very safe and reliable.
The beaches are a great place to unwind and relax or go for a swim. Playas is also home to some of Tijuana’s best restaurants. The upper promenade is packed with independent seafood joints, and the lower promenade swamped with street food vendors selling everything from shrimp to churros.
Avenida Revolucion
Tijuana’s busy main drag is awash with sights and sounds at all hours of the day. During the day time, it’s the place to go for some retail therapy at refreshingly lower prices than those north of the border. It’s also the centre of Tijuana’s street art scene. Take a look down the alley ways leading off the Avenida which are awash with murals.
Avenida Revolucion is also where you’ll find the city’s top museums. Museo del Taco is a must for foodies, whilst the small but interesting Historic Archives near Tijuana Arch is well worth a visit.
Another foodie paradise is Hotel Caesars’ restaurant. Founded by Italian immigrants, it’s famous across the world as the birthplace of the Caesar Salad. Owner Caesar Cardini is said to have created it out of necessity after running out of ingredients. To this day, it’s their signature dish and is prepared tableside.
Tijuana’s Famous Nightlife
Tijuana has long had a reputation as a party city. When the U.S. introduced prohibition, Americans flocked across the border to get their fix. Today, that’s still a popular pastime for younger Americans. Mexico’s drinking age is 18, as opposed to 21.
More recently, Tijuana has upped its game, moving away from cheap shots and cocktails to become the epicentre of the Mexican craft beer industry. Dozens of micro-breweries and craft brew bars line Avenida Revolucion.
Whatever your tipple, you’re guaranteed a fun night out in Tijuana. The later it gets, the more fun you’ll have. I’ll never forget a peculiar interaction with an 18-year old Arizonan boy who was most put out that I wouldn’t share his half eaten chicken wings. He called me a strawberry. I’d never considered this to be an insult, but have added it to my armoury.
