Like any avid travel enthusiast, ticking off yet another country fills me with a sense of accomplishment like nothing else. But there’s something even more special about ticking off a country which isn’t recognized by any other, except one. So, when the opportunity arose to walk across a disputed international border for lunch, I could hardly turn it down.
Ledra Street, Nicosia
That’s why, on a warm spring afternoon, I’m fighting my way through the crowds on Nicosia’s Ledra Street. As streets go, Ledra is fairly mundane at first glance. High end boutiques line the sidewalks, interspersed by the occasional fast-food joint. A handful of Greek and Cypriot restaurants are the only reminders of which country I’m in. Without them, Ledra Street could well be in any European capital.
But the throng of visitors I’m fighting my way through haven’t found themselves on Ledra Street in search of Gyros or a new designer handbag. They’re here for the same reason as I; to get a glimpse across the border.
As I shove my way further away from Eleftheria Square, the boutiques make way for money exchanges and the restaurants are replaced by souvenir stands. Then, without warning, I’m staring at some rather gruesome looking spikes standing in the middle of the street.
Crossing a Disputed International Border
The Ledra Spikes mark the entrance to the UN-maintained buffer zone; a no-man’s land separating two countries, both of whom lay claim to the largest island in the Mediterranean. I’m channelled into a maze of cordons which lead me to passport control. It’s a simple affair. A Cypriot immigration officer nonchalantly stamps me out of Cyprus, and with it, out of the European Union. I cross the no-man’s land; it’s peaceful, surprisingly so, with relaxing music emanating from a couple of speakers attached to the wooden roof of the covered walkway.
Twenty-or-so meters further one, I emerge from the buffer zone to a somewhat more formally looking immigration control. I hand over my passport to a stern-faced young lady expecting a grilling. But she scans my passport and hands it back. No questions, no stamp, not even a cordial merhaba; in a matter of seconds, I’m admitted to the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC).
In North Nicosia
I may be just 25 meters from the designer boutiques and Cypriot restaurants of Ledra Street, but I no longer feel as if I’m in a faceless European city. I feel instead, the hustle and bustle of Istanbul. To my right, overdressed ice cream vendor with an immaculate moustache is putting on quite the show for his customers, on my left, an impressive display of Turkish Delight and baklava sits in a shop window. I can’t stomach either, but they always look good.
I stroll aimlessly for some time, taking in the sights and sounds of North Nicosia. I almost lose patience with an Asian tourist who does his best to prevent anyone else getting a photo of a statue of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, Türkiye’s true national hero, in front of Kryenia Gate, before wandering through cobbled streets lined with shops which wouldn’t be out of place in the Grand Bazaar.
After a while, I settle outside a small restaurant where I order a pide and an Efes. The pide is greasy and tasteless, the Efes tastes like the pipes haven’t been cleaned in some decades, but I don’t mind. I crossed a disputed international border for lunch, but not for the food.
A Brief History of a Divided Island
The so-called “Cyprus problem” is not a new issue. Greek settlers first arrived way back in 1400 BC and was, for around 4,000 years, part of the Greek Empire until it was disposed by the Romans. It wasn’t until 1570 that the Turks arrived and conquered Cyprus, after which the island became a part of the Ottoman Empire for the next 300 years.
In 1878, Britian took control of Cyprus, using it (rather unsuccessfully) as a bargaining tool during both world wars. When Cyprus gained independence in 1960, it didn’t take long for the Cyprus problem to rear its head once more.
The current division stems from a Greek coup d’etat in 1974. When Greece refused to respect Turkish demands for Cyprus to remain independent, Türkiye launched an invasion successfully capturing the north of the island, which they retain to this day despite much international pressure.
Things to Know Before You Cross the Border
These days, the matter of Cypriot sovereignty is confined to UN chambers and there’s little to no risk of protests disrupting a trip across the border. In fact, the election of a new leader of TRNC in 2025 has led to speculation that talks of reunifying Cyprus may well be on the table. Just in case this proves to be true, I’d recommend paying a visit sooner rather than later.
When you do, all you need to remember is your passport. Unless you hold a Syrian, Nigerian or Armenian passport, you don’t need to get a visa in advance to visit TRNC. It’s also handy to have some Turkish Lira (TRY) cash, or some foreign currency to exchange. Many shops and restaurants in TRNC, particularly those in North Nicosia, accept Euros as payment, but the exchange rate varies, and you may end up paying more than you would in Lira. If you plan to use public transport to get outside the city and explore the rest of the territory (something I highly recommend doing), carrying a small amount of the local currency is essential.
