I’ll admit it: I’m irresistibly drawn to solitary natural places of striking beauty, so I may be a little biased when I say that Iona, a tiny island in the Inner Hebrides just off the much larger Isle of Mull, was the highlight of my Scottish travels. But I’m far from alone in appreciating this place—small in size yet remarkably rich in experiences, and uniquely capable of conveying the energy of extreme, edge-of-the-world landscapes.
It takes just ten minutes on the Sound of Iona ferry to leave behind the wide, wild, and relatively populated Mull and find yourself not thrown, but gently set down into a luminous, almost spiritual microcosm. Iona is tiny—home to roughly 120–180 residents—and can be explored entirely on foot with ease (no cars are allowed). Precisely because of this, it invites a slow pace.
There’s no need for detailed planning: you simply follow the light, the wind, and the sea, which is never out of sight. To explore it properly, you really need a full day—something that can clash with ferry schedules—and more importantly, spending the night on the island is a pleasure you shouldn’t pass up.
The Spiritual Core: The Abbey and the Nunnery
It’s remarkable to think that such a small piece of land has played such a central role in Scottish history. Iona is considered the cradle of Christianity in Scotland, thanks to the founding of the abbey by Saint Columba in 563 AD. From here, the Christianization of much of Scotland began, and the island became a major spiritual and cultural center, as well as a burial place for ancient Scottish, Irish, and Norwegian kings. The inevitable starting point is Iona Abbey.
What immediately stands out are the exceptionally well-preserved medieval artifacts housed within the abbey and its surrounding spaces: intricately carved Celtic crosses, finely decorated stone fragments, engraved grave slabs, capitals, and original architectural elements that testify to the high artistic level reached by the monastery during the Middle Ages. Particularly significant are the tombs of kings and nobles, traditionally buried here because of the site’s sacred status, along with iconography that blends Christian symbols with older Celtic motifs.
Beyond its historical importance, what truly captivated me was the balance between architecture and landscape: the gray stone, the simple lines, and the open position facing the sea. Silence comes naturally here, and allowing yourself to be permeated by the presence of the past feels effortless.
Not far away lie the remains of the Nunnery. Although equally evocative, it’s often overlooked because it sits halfway between the ferry landing and the abbey. I didn’t skip it—in fact, I spent a good half hour there, in this open, quiet place that still manages to convey what daily life on the island must have felt like centuries ago, in an isolation that was not an escape, but a deliberate choice.
White Sand, Cold Water: The White Strand of the Monks
My personal mission was to reach the White Strand of the Monks, the island’s true gem. And here I speak as someone who seeks out white-sand beaches even in the most unlikely corners of the world. This beach is simply irresistible. Fine, pale sand; crystal-clear water; brilliant light; grassy dunes all around. The contrast between the white sand and the intense blues and greens of the sea is extraordinary. You could almost imagine yourself in Sardinia or the Caribbean—if it weren’t for the temperature.
But if, like me, you love this kind of landscape, you can’t just look. Swimming is inevitable. The water is cold, yes, but incredibly pure, and the experience is so intense that it becomes unforgettable. Around you: only wind, sky, and silence. No infrastructure, no artificial noise. A beach that asks for nothing except your presence.
Walking South: Light, Sea, and Stone
Iona’s interior also offers easy, rewarding light trekking routes. You walk through low grasslands, rocks, and soft trails, with the sea always present, never hidden. Also ever-present are the island’s sheep, which dot the landscape in black and white and contribute not only to its unmistakable character but also to the local craft tradition, thanks to their exceptionally high-quality wool.
Continuing south, you reach Saint Columba’s Bay, a small, sheltered inlet with multicolored pebbles and a profound sense of isolation. Just beyond lies the Marble Quarry, the old site where green marble was extracted for buildings and decorative elements across Scotland. Here, the landscape becomes harsher, more mineral, revealing another side of the island—one shaped by labor, material, and endurance.
Unexpected Craftsmanship
One of the greatest surprises I found on Iona—and one that happily allowed me to take a piece of the island home with me—was its contemporary craftsmanship. In a place this remote and sparsely populated, you wouldn’t expect such a refined, authentic, and coherent creative output. And yet it’s one of the things that stayed with me the most.
If, like me, you have a deep connection to the world of design, the Iona Craft Shop (https://www.ionacraftshop.com/) is absolutely unmissable. The two buildings, facing each other just steps from the ferry landing, draw you in almost immediately. Here you’ll find scarves, clothing, and accessories made from Iona wool, all of exceptional quality. I dare you to leave without at least a pair of wonderfully warm socks or a blanket. Alongside textiles, there are ceramics, jewelry, and small design objects that perfectly reflect the island’s aesthetic, interpreted through a contemporary and tasteful lens. Also not to be missed is the Sat Columba Larder, a small shop along the road to the abbey. It offers delightful, essential handcrafted objects—especially paper goods—and a truly outstanding gin made with botanicals from the island.
Practical Information
How to get there:
To reach Iona, you first travel to Mull (ferry from Oban to Craignure), cross the island to Fionnphort, and from there take the Sound of Iona ferry (about 10 minutes). Vehicles are not allowed on Iona; you explore the island entirely on foot.
Where to eat:
Dining options on the island are very limited. Lunch and dinner are available only at the restaurants of the island’s two hotels: St Columba’s Hotel and Argyll Hotel Iona. There are no cafés or bars, so it’s wise to arrive with snacks in your backpack.
Where to stay:
Accommodation is limited. In addition to St Columba’s Hotel and Argyll Hotel, Iona, there are only a couple of self-catering houses. That said, staying overnight is highly recommended—the evening and early morning hours are when Iona reveals its deepest character.
Iona Island: Crystal Waters, Stone Abbeys, and the Quiet End of Europe (Photo Credits: Roberta Bianchi)
Why Iona Stays With You
Iona moved me not only for its beauty and well-preserved history, but for its ability to express itself through a contemporary, living voice. The people and the objects here speak a language that feels current, engaging, and proudly rooted in place. This is not a destination marked by tired tourism-workers, but by an active, creative generation capable of transmitting a genuine sense of vitality to those who come to visit. Well done, Iona—keep going this way, and you’ll remain coherent, alive, and meaningful for a very long time.
