There are a few places on Earth that feel as though you have left the planet entirely, transporting you to another universe of otherworldly natural landscapes and wonders. Wadi Rum is one of those places that films have used for decades to capture what it would feel like to be on the moon or Mars. I was lucky enough to experience this magical landscape for myself, staying one night in a Bedouin camp in the desert and immersing myself in the rich cultural traditions of these nomadic people who have lived on these lands for centuries.
Stretching across southern Jordan near the Saudi border, Wadi Rum is a protected desert wilderness shaped by erosion over thousands of years, creating unique sandstone and granite formations against a backdrop of red sand. This combination creates a red-tinted world of canyons, dunes, and towering stone pillars.
The Journey to the Desert
Driving from the town of Musa, famed for the archaeological site of Petra, the landscape slowly shifted from dotted villages to a wild place, with the houses fading behind to make way for open red sand plains. In the distance, a quaint village appeared, with only a few homes, yet the center of touristic operations for the valley, which has increased in popularity over the years. Meeting our hosts, we entered their traditional Arabic Bedouin home, the living room simply lined with low cushions and a wooden table. After a welcome meal of rice and meat, we were instructed to hop into the back of a pick-up jeep, ready for our journey to the camp.
Bouncing along the sand road with the wind picking up, I truly felt like I was on an adventure to remember, with caravans of camels in the distance and dotted fires of other drivers and guides. The landscapes and distances were way more vast than I expected, with hills and stone formations going out in each direction for miles, creating interesting shadows and patterns of overlapping rock formations out onto the horizon. After a drop-off at our surprisingly luxurious camp, with tents complete with beds, bathrooms, and privacy in the middle of the desert, we set off on our own day to experience everything the desert had to offer.
Sand Boarding Down a Dune
Our first stop was sandboarding. Climbing up the deep red dune, I made my way to the top, from which I could see the canyons and valley in each direction. There was no sign of civilization, just raw, untamed nature, which explained why so many film companies use this as “Mars.” With a big push, I glided down the sand, picking up speed before crashing and landing, something I knew was coming.
Ancient Travel Tips
Next, it was time to explore a canyon that contained ancient carvings, showing just how long people had been inhabiting this land. These inscriptions were over 2000 years old, created by the Nabateans as markers for future nomads and caravans passing through the area.
They described the location of a nearby freshwater spring and the potential fauna they could encounter in the area. One of the first “tips for visitors” from thousands of years ago.
Bedouin Tea in a Cave
With hungry bellies, we found a cave where our guide, Awad, began to make a fire and warm up hummus, cheese, fresh bread, and tea. Recounting the traditional ways that Bedouins would brew sweet tea in the desert, I watched as he quickly put together a delicious spread, all while in a cave with no resources or modern amenities. It was fascinating to learn more about the history of the Bedouin, who were originally a nomadic tribe that settled in the area and now mainly live off tourism. While many, including those in the archaeological sites around the southern part of the country, rely on tourism, he explained that many still roam the deserts and live a traditional life.
The Mystical Red Sunset
After multiple stops throughout the desert of hiking up stone formations to see the views from above, it was time for one of the most magical parts of the trip: the sunset over the desert. There is something beautiful about sunset anywhere in the world, but I had a feeling that this one was going to be extra special. Finding a comfortable spot on an untouched dune, we sat down as the world turned to a warm orange, the sky now matching the coloring of the land below.
As it descended, the layers of rock turned to different shades of brown, each darker than the last. Like layers of paint on a canvas, the colors danced and changed with each passing second. Closing my eyes, I listened for the sounds of the world, only to be met with almost complete silence. There was a true sense of peace, knowing the only rumbling in the distance was the sound of the desert itself.
A Dinner Cooked in the Ground
As the last light of the sun finally disappeared, it was time to try a traditional Bedouin meal cooked deep in the ground, using a technique passed down for generations. Gathered in the main tent, wrapped in blankets to fight the cold, we began to feast on a delicious meat cooked under the sand, its smoky flavor bursting in my mouth. With rice dishes topped with chopped nuts, hummus, bread, and more dips than I could name, we enjoyed a traditional Bedouin dinner. Then, with multiple rounds of sweet tea, it was time for one of the highlights of the trip, gazing out at the stars.
Sleeping Under the Milky Way
Lying out in the sand on fluffy cushions around the campfire, I lay down to look up at the most stars I had seen in my life. With the crisp air of the desert biting my face and the scent of the fire crackling near me, I felt like I had truly been transported to another world. There were more stars than I could count, some bright, some dim. Then in the center of it all was the faint glow of the Milky Way across the sky. No wonder the ancients were so fascinated by space, with the sky looking like this for millennia without light pollution and the commodities of our modern world.
Wadi Rum is a must-experience for anyone seeking to understand the magic of Jordan and its vast cultural traditions that are tied to its unique landscapes. While seeing the desert firsthand was beautiful, what made the experience so special were the cultural elements woven into it, from listening to the Bedouins’ history to the campfire under the stars.
