Along Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, between the seaside towns of Kaş and Demre, lies a stretch of crystal blue water and rocky coves that is home to ancient Lycian ruins scattered in shallow waters. The island of Kekova and the nearby village of Simena are part of a protected archaeological region of the ancient Lycians, a people who lived here thousands of years ago, and whose archaeological remains are dotted across hillsides, inlets, and under the waves. While most visitors come to the Turkish Riviera to experience the luxurious resorts or coastal villages, this day trip by boat is the perfect way to see the gorgeous coastline and the region’s ancient history.
Underwater Archaeology by Private Boat
The winding roads that cut through the southern Turkish hills eventually led us down toward the Mediterranean coast, where we arrived in a small seaside village with a quiet harbor at its center. Bouncing along dusty roads towards the main pier, we began searching for a boat captain willing to take us for the day. After a quick negotiation on timing and price, we found our captain waiting beside a traditional wooden Turkish boat, fitted with cushions and a shaded canopy.
As we pulled away from the harbor and into the clear waters, the first signs of the region-s ancient past quickly appeared. Lycian tombs, carved into rocky cliffs and scattered along the shoreline, came into view. Some stood high above the water, while others seemed to emerge directly from the shallow sea. Dating back over 3000 years, these tombs are remnants of the Lycian civilization, a powerful kingdom that once ruled this stretch of Anatolia.
As the waters shifted from deep blues to bright turquoise, the changing colors revealed hints of the ancient world below. Beneath the surface, the outlines of archaeological remains began to appear. Stone tombs, fragments of homes, and the remains of coastal structures resting just beneath the surface.
Along the shoreline, doorways, walls, and entire rooms stood partially submerged, with waves gently lapping up against them. These structures were once part of the mighty maritime network the Lycians created, living in the same world as the Egyptian pharaohs and the Hittite empire. Long before the “ancient Greeks” we think of today, such as Athens or Sparta, the Lycians were establishing a powerful trade network in the region and carving architectural wonders.
Today, all we can see of them are a few structures that remain due to an earthquake during Roman times that sank parts of the region, piecing together a story of a powerful empire that is now nothing more than silent walls sleeping under the waves.
A Visit to Simena Castle
Next on the journey was hiking to Simena Castle, located on a peninsula in an inlet that looks like it’s out of a fairy tale. With a crumbling castle at the top, this peninsula is home to a small village and a few hotels and restaurants, making it easy to explore in less than an hour.
Getting dropped off at the small pier, we began our ascent up to the ruins. The way up was not a perfectly marked trail or path, but rather a weaving path through crumbling homes and restaurants, with hand-painted signs showing us the way. Little by little, we made it to the entrance ot the castle, which was supposedly constructed by the Knights of Rhodes in the Middle Ages to fend off pirates in the region.
From above, at a height of 45 meters above sea level, the area is stunning, with the Lycian tombs in the water peeking out in the distance. (In the image below, you can see them located in the small inlet of islands on the right side.) The beauty of the Turkish southern coast is captured in the view from the castle: with the deep green islands and inlets springing out of the waters with no rhyme or reason, creating eclectic patterns along the horizon. Sailboats, big and small, hide in little bays, searching for a quiet respite to take a swim or enjoy a long lunch. All the while, restaurants grill shish kebab in small alleyways of the villages, and elderly folk sip tea while enjoying the sights.
As someone who has explored this region of Turkey over 5 times, I can attest to its unique magic, with the natural world and the country’s rich culture blending into a traveler’s paradise.
