If you’re yet to visit England, the chances are you have at least some preconceptions. You’ve seen the photos of London, heard tales of Stonehenge and Bath and gazed in awe at photos of the Cornish coast. These are all great, there’s no denying that, but as an Englishman, there’s nothing that rivals me more than hearing someone say they’ve “seen” England when the furthest they’ve ventured from London is Windsor Castle.
I’m sure it’s the same for you in your home countries. The Brits who say they’ve been to America when they haven’t left the confines of Universal Orlando, or those who think Benidorm is the height of Spanish sophistication.
That’s why I’ve put together a few of my favourite spots in England that you really ought to visit to get off the tourist trail and discover the real England. I’ll be honest; I’m almost reluctant to share them. It’s quite nice not having to share these beauty spots with anyone else.
Constable Country
My birthplace, Colchester, was long known by the moniker “England’s oldest recorded town”. Founded by the Celts, when the Romans came, they made it their capital. A couple of years ago, Colchester was granted city status and had to rebrand. It now sells itself as “Britain’s first city”, which I’ll be the first to admit, has absolutely no ring to it at all.
Names aside, I tell you this because Colchester is not only one of England’s most underrated cities, but the gateway toana almost unexplored region. Very few international tourists stray to this little corner of East Anglia. Colchester’s own draws, mainly a magnificent Norman castle, le are overshadowed by what lies beyond.
On the border between Essex and Suffolk, the countryside between Colchester and Ipswich is the definition of a rural idyll. It’s dubbed Constable Country after the Romantic artist John Consta,ble who was born here in 1776. The stunning landscapes inspire and are portrayed in Constable’s finest works.
Getting off the tourist trail in Constable country
To experience the Constable Country I love, head for the quaint market town of Manningtree. After lunch at Lucca, my favourite Italian restaurant, take a walk along the River Stour to picture-perfect Dedham.
Rent a rowing boat to potter about on the river before having a traditional afternoon tea at the Essex Rose. Then, take a wander along the bank to Flatford Mill, where Constable painted his most famous pieces of all: The Hay Wain.
Norwich & the Norfolk Coast
Sometimes, sentimental value means more than sense, and that’s certainly the case for me when it comes to Norfolk. No matter how often I visit as an adult, it’s always the memories of childhood holidays here which stick in my mind.
Norfolk is, geographically, out on a limb. North east of London, sticking out into the North Sea, no visitor to England has ever had a good reason to pass through the county unless they’re actually going there. And that’s what makes it all the more worth visiting.
Getting off the tourist trail in Norwich & North Norfolk
Its main city, Norwich, makes for the ideal city break. In true English fashion, there’s an amazingly preserved castle built on the orders of William the Conqueror, but it’s Norwich’s more recent additions which are a real win. Norwich has one of the finest covered markets in the country, a grand Victorian arcade (where you’ll find the famous Colman’s English mustard shop) and a stunning cathedral.
But if you want to see the Norfolk I truly love, you’ll want to head a little further north. The North Norfolk Coast is a place of beauty. Start your journey in Cromer, a typical English Victorian seaside resort, by sampling the local delicacy- Cromer Crab. Follow the coast west, pausing for a walk through Sheringham Park to Weybourne Station to hop aboard a steam train to the market town of Holt.
Back at the coast, go seal spotting at Blakeney Point before spending the night in Wells-next-the-Sea. The next day, pay a visit to grand Holkham Hall, walk through lavender fields in Heacham before rubbing shoulders with royalty at Sandringham House.
South Oxfordshire
Another area of England I once called home, I spent eight happy years living in the sleepy South Oxfordshire village of Cholsey. Apart from being the final resting place of legendary crime writer Agatha Christi, and having a fantastic Indian restaurant, there’s not much reason to take yourselves there. The surrounding region, however, is packed with great things to see and do.
The handy thing about living in South Oxfordshire is how close it is to everywhere. London is just an hour’s train ride, and the bustling university city of Oxford jis ust a half-hour drive away. This is great when it comes to visiting. If you’re already planning to visit iconic Windsor Castle en route from London to Oxford, as so many do, visiting South Oxfordshire won’t even require a detour.
Getting off the tourist trail in South Oxfordshire
The highlight of any visit to South Oxfordshire is Henley-on-Thames. A beautiful riverside market town, if you’ve heard of Henley, it’s probably thanks to the annual rowing regatta. Take a walk along the Thames, explore the River & Rowing Museum and, whatever you do, don’t miss lunch or a tipple at The Angel on the Bridge.
Stop by Tudor Greys Court and Nuffield Place, once home to Lord Nuffield, who founded the Morris Motor Company. Next, follow the course of the river to Wallingford, home to many of the filming locations for Midsomer Murders. Pause at The Boathouse for refreshments overlooking the Thames; if you’re lucky, you might get to see the Oxford University rowing team practising for the famous Oxford vs Cambridge boat race.
The North Lakes
I first visited the North Lakes on a school trip almost 20 years ago. I fell in love with it then, and every time I go back, that love becomes a little deeper. Of course, there’s nothing “off the tourist trail” about the Lake District. Cumbria is one of the most popular destinations for travellers road tripping through England.
Most of those visitors, though, all go to the same places. They flock to Windermere in search of Peter Rabbit of Beatrix Potter fame. Some venture slightly further north to Grasmere for a gingerbread fix, but few stray into the North Lakes.
Getting off the tourist trail in thenorthernh lakes
The best way to explore the North Lakes is to base yourself in the market town of Keswick. It’s busy by day, but the quiet evenings feel quintessentially English. Spend one day exploring what lies to the east. Ullswater is famous for its classic steamer boats, and a cruise on one is a must. Leave time to hike up to Aira Force waterfall.
Naturally, you’ll want a day exploring the lakes which surround Keswick. Derwent Water, to the south, is my favourite of all the Lake District’s lakes. To the north, Bassenthwaite Lake is ideal for hiking without unwanted disturbances and, if you’re feeling adventurous, offers some of the best spots for ghyll scrambling. Interestingly, Bassenthwaite is also the only “lake” in the Lake District; all the others are “meres”, “tarns” or “waters”.
North Yorkshire
Another part of England I’ve been lucky enough to call home, albeit only for a year, North Yorkshire has something to offer everyone. From its world-famous Dales to the barren remoteness of the Moors and a rugged coastline, North Yorkshire is all the best bits of England brought together in one place.
Of course, plenty of tourists make the pilgrimage to York. And as much as I advocate avoiding the tourist hotspots, I can’t make a case not to visit York. It’s fascinating, and you really should go, but whilst you’re there, do what others don’t and explore the countryside to the north.
Getting off the tourist trail inNorth Yorkshiree
To me, the star of North Yorkshire will always be Harrogate. Home to natural springs (you’ll probably encounter Harrogate Spring Water on several occasions during your trip) and Roman baths, be sure to stop at Betty’s Tea Rooms for afternoon tea or morning coffee, two essential elements of English life.
Harrogate is one of the gateways to the Dales National Park, which needs at least a couple of days to explore. Make the Bronte sister’s home, Haworth, a priority along with Grassington, Skipton and Hawes Creamery.
When it comes to discovering the Moors, a ride on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway is a great way to see the sights. There’s nothing quite like gliding through the country on a steam train. Jump off at Grosmont for a riverside lunch at The Station Tavern. Rejoin the train to reach the coast and the town of Whitby, famous for the abbey which inspired Bram Stoker’s Dracula. Round off with a trip up the coast to Saltburn.
