Most travellers coming to Europe from afar focus on the main sights. They flock to London, Paris and Rome.
And all for good reasons; they’re fantastic cities to visit, and definitely deserve a position on your bucket list if you’re yet to visit.
For those of us who live in Europe, we holiday in Greece, the Spanish Islands, and the Algarve. Some venture further. To the wonderful Balkan countries or the Baltic States, to Eastern Europe or some of Western Europe’s lesser-known cities.
But one country that very few Europeans, or any travellers, make it to, is Moldova. Europe’s least visited country for many years running, Moldova has a terrible tourism and travel infrastructure, but to me, that’s all the more reason to pay a visit.
Where is Moldova?
I’m a 90’s child. Growing up, PlayStations and X-Boxes were a pipe dream. Instead, we passed our time playing board games.
Of course there was Monopoly and Trivial Pursuit, but one of the more random games we used to play as a family was Where is Moldova? It was exactly as it sounds. You had to find, and reach, this tiny country (on the board, that is) first to win.
I never won. So, you can imagine my excitement when I called my mum from a hotel in Belfast on a work trip to tell her I’d finally worked out where Moldova was and booked a flight there. She said I was mad. I agreed, after all, unlike Sheldon Cooper’s mother, she never had me tested.
For those of you who are unsure where Moldova is, it’s in Eastern Europe. Moldova shares borders with Romania and Ukraine. Culturally, and linguistically, it’s very similar to the former.
A Night in Chisinau
When I visited Chisinau, the only direct link from the UK was a daily flight from London Stansted operated by the now-defunct Moldovan flag carrier, Air Moldova. They were a funny little airline. The captain would bellow “take-off” over the PA system as we trundled down the runway, before the cabin crew plied everyone with copious amounts of red wine. No white, no beer, it was red wine or nothing.
The taxi ride from the airport was interesting. The driver smoked for the whole journey and the price suddenly increased when we arrived. I’d booked a room at the City Park Hotel, a very cheap, but very good boutique hotel in the city centre.
Upon arrival, I was offered an upgrade to a junior suite. Having paid under £40 for my room, I think it qualifies as the cheapest suite I’ve ever stayed in.
I immediately set out for an evening stroll in search of dinner. Having ended up at Salciora, a cute traditional Moldovan spot a few streets away, I spent a while chuckling at the English translations on the menu before tucking into a divine Moldovan-style steak.
Quite aptly, my hotel was right next to Cathedral Park, so in the morning I set out to explore. It was littered with statues, though the most impressive depicted King Stephen III of Moldova, better known as Stephen the Great. His rule was one of the most successful periods of Moldovan history.
Since then, though, Moldova hasn’t had an easy life. This tiny country has been invaded by Russians and Turks, been part of a union with Romania and then the USSR. When the Soviet Union collapsed, most former USSR nations benefited. Moldova didn’t.
Corruption is rife in Moldova, and efficient government is but a pipe dream. As a result, Moldova has the lowest GDP in Europe. In an attempt to rebuild, Moldova has been trying to become a member of the European Union. Their efforts so far, have been unrewarded. However, finally, in 2022, it was nominated as a candidate to join the EU. The road ahead is long, but Moldova might finally be on the up.
I pondered this on a bench in the centre of the park. As I did, a road sweeper with what I can only describe as a witch’s broom beavered away unenthusiastically. It was baking under the midday sun. No day for sweeping paths.
Leaving the park behind, I spent a while exploring the National History Museum. Moldova’s past may be chequered, but that makes it all the more interesting. My, slightly geeky, favourite museum though, was the Regional Museum of Transport.
Visiting Transnistria
The breakaway region of Transnistria, close to the Ukrainian border, isn’t recognised by any formal states. The UN deems it part of Moldova, though it is entirely self-governing. Most foreign governments, including the British FCDO advise against visiting. If you decide to travel against government advice, be aware that your travel insurance may be void. Should you wish to visit anyway, tours are departing daily from Chisinau.
Is Moldova Worth Visiting?
There are very few places in the world that I would say aren’t worth visiting, even if only once. I would very much like to revisit Moldova and spend time exploring more of the country.
I’d particularly like to visit Divin, one of Moldova’s most famous wine-producing regions. It’s rare to find Moldovan wine in mainstream stores or restaurants in the UK, or elsewhere in the world. So, you can imagine my surprise when I was presented with a bottle at an Indian restaurant in Scotland recently.
