I arrived in Colombia last week to begin backpacking South America with my boyfriend. Our first stop was the Caribbean city of Cartagena. Known for its Spanish colonial architecture, 16th-century walled city, Spanish fort, and its history as a Spanish port, it has Caribbean beaches and islands, great street food and nightlife, and it is a great way to start your trip in Colombia.
The city itself is beautiful and we enjoyed our time, but we ended up deciding to spend only two full days before moving on to the nearby Santa Marta. The main reasons why we limited our time were the heat and a bad experience with another guest in our hostel who harassed me, and we had to move to a new place and then left early the next morning. One other drawback is the amount of trash. I would rank Cartagena higher than average among cities I’ve visited for the amount of garbage and litter.
Cartagena is very, very hot. We knew this coming into it, but once we were here, it hit us quickly. We spent one of the days walking around and taking in everything in the city, but by the end of the day we were drained from the sun and heat. So, if you want to enjoy a day out in Cartagena, come prepared with lots of water and sunscreen.
The Coastal City
The city is on the Caribbean coast and boasts beautiful blue water and Caribbean beaches. We didn’t make it to the beach, but flying in we got a view of the islands and beaches that attract many to the city.
One popular option for tourists is island tours, which can often be booked for less than $100. The city is also one of Colombia’s largest port cities, with the large shipping containers visible from the airplane as we descended into the city.
Beautiful Sunsets and Skylines
Cartagena has a series of skyscrapers that rival those of Bogotá, despite being the country’s fifth-largest city. This is largely due to demand for oceanfront property, which has caused the city to build skyscrapers for wealthy residents and tourists to live in.
While out in the city, I got a view of the skyline and even looked out at the skyline with the Caribbean as a backdrop at sunset, and it was magnificent. Definitely try to catch a sunset while in Cartagena.
Castillo San Felipe de Barajas
Castillo San Felipe de Barajas is a large fort built on top of a hill by the Spanish in 1639 to ensure no one coming from land or sea could take the fortress. It was built using enslaved African labor and was used in battles between the 17th and 19th centuries.
We arrived in the morning to avoid crowds and paid the entry fee of 38,000COP ($10) each. We then began our ascent up to the top. We ended up spending about two hours at the fort exploring all its levels and reading about the history, as well as enjoying the views of the city from the top.
Getsemaní: The Colorful Neighborhood
A 15-minute walk from the fortress will bring you to Getsemaní, a colorful neighborhood filled with painted buildings, art, street food, restaurants, and bustling with tourists! We spent an hour walking the streets of the neighborhood until we arrived at a square where we enjoyed our lunch.
While in the square, we watched the Palenqueras, Afro-Colombian women from San Basilio de Palenque, a town near Cartagena founded by enslaved people who escaped. It is recognized as the first free African town in the Americas. These women wear vibrant dresses and baskets of fruit on their heads. They sell fruit and take photographs with tourists.
We also encountered street rappers, a common encounter in Cartagena that my boyfriend told me he also experienced the last time here. If they encounter you, they will begin to create a personal rap about you and then ask for a tip for the experience.
Ciudad Amurallada: The Old City
Another 15-minute walk later we arrived in the Ciudad Amurallada, the historic, walled part of Cartagena built in the 16th century. Perhaps what Cartagena is best known for, this is where the original inhabitants of the Spanish colony lived. Within the walls lie colorful buildings that have been maintained and restored, as well as shops, museums and restaurants to attract tourists.
Walking the Walls
The Ciudad Amurallada is famously surrounded by walls, with the northwestern wall giving views of the skyscrapers, sunset and Caribbean Sea all at once. After walking around and enjoying the buildings, greenery, and streets, we walked onto and along the walls, taking in the view. The wall is still equipped with cannons aimed at the sea from when the city had to defend against invaders.
We ended our day by walking to the Plaza Simon Bolívar and enjoying some live music and dancing and delicious arepas, which are flatbread made of ground maize, often stuffed with cheese or other fillings, a staple of Colombia.
Cartagena is the beginning of — if all goes according to plan — what will be a long journey through South America for my boyfriend and me. So, we chose not to take advantage of everything one can do in Cartagena since we will be doing so much in the coming months.
However, you could spend weeks here enjoying the beach, island tours, food, nightlife, museums, shopping, culture and history. While we only stayed for a short time, I’m happy I got to experience this unique Caribbean city.
