I situate my goggles snuggly over my eyes before unzipping the outer layer of our tent, and I brace myself for the icy wind. We’ve been snowed in all day, and the only reason I’m leaving the tent is walk to the tiny, drafty outhouse.
To do so, I have donned my double boots (one inner boot plus one outer, plastic boot), goggles, big down jacket, and heavy gloves. The view outside the tent is blistering white, save for the yellow North Face tents scattered nearby. We’re at the second high camp, at 5,500 meters (18,045 ft). This is our ninth day on the mountain, and the summit is still far above us.
What It Means to Climb Aconcagua
What exactly is Aconcagua, and why does it lure so many hopeful climbers out every summer season? When I first heard of Aconcagua, some time after I’d climbed Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, I was instantly intrigued. I recall seeing footage of the brownish expanse around the lower camps, the rocky surroundings and snow-covered faces of the mountain, and feeling an inexorable draw. It didn’t hurt that this mountain is located in Argentina, a country that was already on my bucket list.
I knew I needed to climb it. I also knew it’d be the highest altitude I’d ever gone to—a real challenge. The summit towers above every other peak, not only in South America, but in North America as well. It’s the highest peak outside the Himalayas. Getting to the top, at 6,961 meters (22,841 ft), would ultimately take me two attempts and four years from the point of deciding on this formidable peak to actually achieving the summit.
Realities of a High-Altitude Mountain Expedition
An expedition on Aconcagua can take up to a few weeks. When I went with my expedition group in December of 2025, we were on the mountain for a total of 14 days. Three of those days were rest days, intended to allow our bodies to acclimate to the lower oxygen levels at higher altitudes.
The route we did is called the 360 Route, also known as the Polish Traverse Route. It offers incredible views of two sides of the mountain, including the famous Polish Glacier. Traveling through Vacas Valley during the first couple of days was breathtaking. We spotted plenty of guanacos, which are relatives of llamas. And, of course, the higher we went, the colder it got. We started seeing some snow flurries at the lower base camp, Plaza Argentina, which sits at 4,200 meters (13,780 feet).
Besides rest days, the routine was this:
- Eat breakfast.
- Hike.
- Arrive at camp. Drink as much water as possible (4-6 liters per day).
- Eat dinner.
- Sleep.
- Repeat the next day.
One member of our group (shoutout to Pepe!) carried along his guitar, which was a much-appreciated form of entertainment. At the first camp above Plaza Argentina, we were fortunate enough to have clear, sunny skies, and sat around singing along (as best we could) to a healthy variety of songs.
I learned on my first attempt at Aconcagua that downtime can wreak havoc on a bored mind. So, activities like singing, reading, or playing games with fellow climbers made a massive difference in maintaining the expedition’s enthusiasm. When I look back on the expedition, those moments were gems; sparks of fun that made the journey memorable.
What’s In Your Bag? Things to Pack & Carry
A huge part of the expedition was making sure I was prepared in terms of having the right gear and staying organized about what I had to carry. Since the 360 Route expedition was my second attempt at Aconcagua, I already owned the majority of cold-weather technical clothing needed for those well-below-freezing days (the summit temperatures get down to -30 degrees C / -22 degrees F or colder).
For any gear you don’t have, it’s easy to rent it at a shop in Mendoza, the closest city to Aconcagua Provincial Park. This time around, I rented an even bigger down jacket than the one I own, for good measure. I also rented my ice axe, helmet, and an extreme-cold sleeping bag, which was invaluable up there.
Our expedition group separated our gear into different categories. The high-mountain gear went off with the mules, and before we went to the high camps, we sent another bag around the mountain to the other base camp, Plaza de las Mulas. Sending gear via mules saves a ton of energy and is a huge advantage in having a successful climb. Less energy expenditure = less stress on your body while it’s already struggling to adjust to low oxygen levels. I never carried more than 25kg, even on the heaviest days.
Summit Day & What the Mountain Taught Me
Above the base camp of Plaza Argentina, there are three high camps. The higher we climbed, the more I felt the altitude. I’d trained for months to build endurance and strength, but nothing prepares your body for altitude besides being at altitude. Luckily, we had highly attentive and well-experienced mountain guides (thank you, Heber and Ezekial from Inka Expeditions!) who monitored our health and instructed us on how to best care for ourselves (mainly, stay hydrated).
The highest camp, Colera Camp, sits at 5,960 meters (19,550 feet). From there, our group woke up at 3:00 am on the summit day and ventured out around 5:30 am. A rising moon was the only thing lighting up the sky in those freezing morning hours. When the sun broke out over the horizon, I said a silent thank-you, knowing (well, hoping) that my numb toes would finally start to thaw under the intense sunlight.
Hours passed. By the time we made it up to “The Cave,” the last major rest point before the summit, it was already 1:30 pm, and we had hours to go. The effects of being at 6,500+ meters (21,000 feet) were getting to me: I felt like my brain was functioning at 15%, and I would sometimes take three heavy breaths for every single step.
Three laborious hours later, we’d made the summit. It was exhilarating up there: the views, the lightedness, the happy tears, the quick photoshoot with the summit sign. After so many days of hiking and resting and waiting and moving, we had fulfilled this dream.
What Aconcagua Taught Me
Aconcagua taught me that there’s more to a mountain—much more—than the summit. This mountain is about camaraderie; it’s about finding peace with yourself; it’s about keeping hope. It’s about bonding with people from different walks of life, sharing meals with a trusting team, and mutual encouragement. So far, it’s been the highlight of all my travels in South America. But that’s not simply because of the summit—it’s because of everything it took to get there. Would you be up for this challenge?
