Sitting along the coastline between the dense rainforest and the ocean, the quaint town of Paraty is isolated from the world, an unassuming village that played a major role in the global economy, trade, and art. Founded in 1597 by the Portuguese at the dawn of the age of colonization, the town served as the gateway to the world’s richest gold mine.
During my time in Brazil, I spent two days exploring the city and experiencing its charm, witnessing how it truly seems frozen in time.
Day 1: Samba Circles and Colonial Buildings
Standing on the uneven, large cobblestones, I looked out over the calm waters of Ilha Grande Bay, with rocky islands and trees dotting the landscape. Around me were white colonial buildings with blue and yellow trim, samba echoing down the streets, and the sound of the ocean wafting in the distance.
Stepping into one of the many boutiques and artisan shops, I found myself face to face with a wall of indigenous artworks and ceramics, an artist’s rendition of works created by people whose descendants still live in small fishing villages dotting the coast.
While it appeared to be a vacationer’s paradise at first glance, the indigenous artwork and paintings of the city’s African heritage revealed its darker history hidden just beneath the surface. As the economic and trade hub for the wealthiest mines on the planet at the time, this city saw thousands of enslaved Africans and indigenous people being transported through every single day. Because the Portuguese required large amounts of labor to extract gold, thousands were brought here to work without consent. It was hard to imagine such a dark history in such “adorable” streets, highlighting the reality of tourism that often fails to address the complexities of the past.
As night fell, the gas lamps lining the old street flickered, and the intricately patterned metal balconies looked down from overhead – it felt as though I had stepped onto a Pirates of the Caribbean film set.
As I continued strolling through the winding maze of streets and alleyways, the church bells began to ring as the thunder of the storms boomed overhead. At the same moment, another kind of thunder rang out; a symphony of drums playing at the same time. Walking eagerly towards the main square filled with the golden light of lamps reflecting off the puddles, locals gather around a samba school band.
Young and old residents played together in a symphony, the instructor gleefully conducting the symphony at the center. As they played upbeat samba melodies, locals danced and sang along to the lyrics. There was a powerful sense of community in the air, with many meeting, saying hello, and coming together. Carnival was indeed just on the horizon.
Looking around, every detail in this town appeared to be frozen in time. Almost nothing had changed or been updated in 200 years, from the archways to the building details to the roof styling and interior architecture. Speaking to our guide, a native of Paraty, he mentioned, “After the abolition of slavery and the creation of the safer route to transfer gold on land due to pirates in the bay, this city was forgotten. No roads connected it, and no ships came.
It stayed the same until the 1970s, when a new road was built that put the city back on the map.” I was shocked. I had heard of cities falling into disrepair, but not entire towns that were literally forgotten. Today, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city is protected and cannot be altered or destroyed, preserving it in time for the sake of tourism and historical understanding.
Day 2: Isolated Bays and Clear Waters
Gliding along the green waters of the bay aboard a small boat called Neptune, I found myself surrounded by landscapes that felt entirely untouched. Small inlets and scattered islands dotted the coastline, vegetation covering every available space on the stone. Tiny white sand beaches hid between the coves, where colorful fishing boats floated lazily near the shore.
When we arrived at the first bay, the island’s steep incline rose above the boat, the rainforest stretching in every direction. Sliding into the water, small, vibrant fish swam down below. Two puffer-fish drifted past me, taking no notice of my curiosity as I watched their routine.
Floating in the clear water, I looked around at the careless tourists lying on the sand or paddling around with snorkels. It wasn’t too long ago in these same bays that pirates waited to raid gold ships, conquistadors brought African slaves from faraway lands, and the hope of empires rested on the shoulders of Portuguese captains who fought off the raids. This appeared to be the consistent theme in this town: stories of adventure, trauma, conflict, and pain sat just beneath the surface, unnoticed to most visitors unless they sought it out.
Continuing our journey, we stopped to float in a bay for lunch. Our meal consisted of traditional Brazilian tapioca, fried plantains, beans, and grilled fish. Additionally, there appeared to be an endless supply of Caipirinhas made with cachaça.
Our guide explained that the liquor cachaça is emblematic of Paraty, with many people around the country simply ordering a “paraty” when they are looking for it. Made out of distilled sugarcane juice, the brandy is produced in factories throughout the city.
Brazil Beyond Expectations
Before arriving in Brazil, my image of the country was either rainforests or big cities. I was aware of bustling metropolises like Rio de Janeiro and São Paolo, but not of historical towns that, despite their small size, played such an important role in the nation’s history.
Paraty was a pleasant surprise, an unassuming city that holds a charm bound to captivate any visitors with a love of history or passion for nature.
